Looking for Patten Makers Photography? Just click the name and you will be transported accross!

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Suzuki GN125 vs GN250

If you're looking for a learner motorcycle odds are you will end up considering a Suzuki GN125 or GN250 at some point. These bikes have been a common recommendation over the years due to their linear power delivery and learner friendly gear display. They have also gained a bad reputation among some members of the bike community as "Go Nowheres" due to the fact that they are not performance or sports bikes. This brings us to the first decision you have to make about what kind of rider you want to be. If you want to use your bike for reliable and cheap transport then a GN is a good choice. If you want to treat your bike as a toy and the road as a race track then either GN will leave you wanting (you may also like to consider treating the road as the road and the race track as the race track). GNs are commuter/learner bikes, not sports bikes.

 While both GNs are great learner/commuter motorcycles their physical similarity begs one obvious question:

What's the difference?

While the obvious answer is 125ccs that's not a helpful answer. The difference is best considered by breaking it down into power, price, resale value, and fuel economy.

Power

Horse power wise, on paper at least, the GN250 is twice as powerful as the GN125 with 22hp for the 250 compared to 11hp for the 125. There is a trade-off with weight though. The GN250 weighs an extra 22kg coming in at 129kg compared to the 125s 107kg. Again, on paper at least, that translates to a more favourable power to weight ratio for the 250 (127kw/tonne ignoring the rider) compared to the 125 (~ 77kw/tonne ignoring the rider) although it won't actually double the power to weight ratio of the 125. In fact the GN250 is actually about 1.66 times as powerful as the GN125. In fact the difference isn't particularly obvious in most situations and neither bike is particularly quick. While they'll beat your standard economy car off the mark quicker drivers in bigger cars can still leave you for dead. The key difference between them becomes apparent when you travel up a steep hill at 100km/h. The 250 will keep pulling while the 125 is likely to struggle. Similarly if you're ever planning on carrying a pillion passenger grab the 250. Realistically though you should upgrade before carrying a passenger anywhere other than around town. (Horsepower and weights obtained from http://www.suzukicycles.org)

Motorway Speed Capability

Originally if you wanted to hit the motorway safely(ish) the GN250 was your only option here. With an on-paper top speed of 115km/h compared to the GN125's on-paper top speed of 90km/h the choice was a no brainer. However lately some dealers have allegedly been selling GN125s with a larger front sprocket. This leads to a change in gearing that allows the bike to travel at motorway speeds at the cost of some low range pulling power. While this does mean that both bikes can travel at motorway speeds, and neither should be exlcuded on this basis, it does not change the fact that the GN250 is the more powerful bike. In fact similar adjustments can be made to the 250 if you want to gear it more towards motorway riding.

Price

In terms of purchase price generally speaking they're fairly similar. The key difference is that (at the time of writing) you can still buy 125s new from Suzuki dealers while GN250s have now been superceeded by the GZ250 (a nice bike with a speedo but no tachometer) which is itself a rare sight on a showroom floor. At the time of writing this 125s are available new from dealers for around $2000 while 250s can be picked up from TradeMe from $900+ (currently the asking price for a late model GN250 with a bit of learner damage (drops from stationary rather than drops at speed) seems to be sitting between $1700-$1900). While a second hand 250 will have more kilometres on the clock than a new 125 GN250s (and 125s) are notoriously reliable and, owing to their ubiquitousness, relatively cheap to repair and maintain.

Resale Value

Resale value is also worth keeping in mind. For 2 key reasons the 250 wins here hands down. First off for many people the 125 is a harder sell than the 250 because they look identical. This implies that the 125 is relatively underpowered. While this isn't exactly true, when it comes time to sell your bike perception, rather than reality, is what matters. Second if you buy a 125 odds are you will be buying it new. If you buy a 250 you will probably buy it second hand. When it comes time to sell the 250 has already dropped the showroom floor premium whereas the 125's price still has a way to fall. Odds are you will lose less on a 250 than a 125.

There is an additional point to consider with resale value though. The GN250 used to represent the upper limit of allowable engine size in a learner/restricted bike. This may have caused them to hold some extra value as they may have been perceived as a powerful learner bike. While this was never factually correct this is where the difference between perception and reality in the market becomes important again. With the incoming changes on the 1st of October 2012 this may no longer be the case and, in the years ahead the value of a GN250, and other 250cc bikes, may drop more steeply than in the past.

Fuel Efficiency

However the point where these and other small engine bikes shine, and will continue to have in their favour after October 1st 2012, is fuel economy. This is also the point where people may favour the 125 over the 250 if buying on gut instinct. However the difference in fuel economy isn't overly pronounced or even particularly convincing. In fact according to registerd users of fuelly.com the difference ranges from ~10% to 0 difference with the sole GN125 rider clocking in at 71 miles per gallon (31 km per litre) with the GN250 riders coming in between 73 and 66 miles per gallon (31 or 28 km per litre). As a comparison other popular 250cc learners, the Honda CBR250 and the Yamaha Scorpio, seem to fall in about the same range while a LAMS aproved Yamaha XT660 660cc bike seems to hover around 20km/L.

Conclusion

Taking all of this into account I would generally advise most people to buy the GN250 rather than the GN125. The only reasons to favour the GN125 over the GN250 are potential savings on fuel and the ability to buy a GN125 new. As we have seen the fuel savings are negligible and, odds are, if you're buying a learner bike you're going to damage your bike. If you're going to damage your bike it's better to add minor damage to a used bike that may be a little rough on the outside than a shiny new one with no prior damage.

The exception to the above recommendations are cases where you will need to pay considerably more for a used GN250 than a new GN125. Currently it is not uncommon to see GN250s being listed on trademe for $2200 or more. Often these listings are for bikes with little or no WOF or Rego and plenty of Ks on the clock. Bikes like these aren't worth that sort of money unless they are in immaculate condition and/or thoroughly and convincingly customised. Realisitically a GN250 with little or no WOF/Rego time remaining can currently be obtained for around $1500 with a bit of patience.

If you move beyond the 125 vs 250 comparison many in the biker community will encourage you to avoid either GN (they are both often referred to as 'Go Nowhere's) or refer to them as good learner bikes. Essentially they are the equivalent of a mid 90s Toyota Corrolla; reliable, economical, and unexciting. If you're looking for a run about the 125 and 250 are ideal candidates. If you're looking for something that will blow your socks off then you are best to look elsewhere.

 

Bonus - The GN400

While the GN125 and GN250 are a common site on the roads there used to be a third bike in the GN line-up: the GN400. The GN400 was produced for 4 years and had a 400c engine producing 27hp. The bike weighed 140kg. This made it more powerful than the GN250... but not by much. The 150cc increase only yielded an extra 5hp. When this is standardised with weight The GN400 is 1.13 times as powerful as the 250 and 1.88 times as poweful as the 125. While the GN400 is regarded as a good bike given the choice between the 125, 250, and 400 I would choose the 250 as the power difference is minimal and parts for the 400 would be harder to come by.

Bonus - The LAMS power to weight ratio

While the GN250 and GN125 have been popular learner bikes the new LAMS regulations will mean that their relatively low power to weight ratio will become more pronounced. Under the new legislation a bike with a power to weight ratio of 150kw/tonne is permissible. Importantly the weight part of the power to weight ratio also allows for a rider of 90kg. This additional weight means that the LAMS power to weight ratio for these bikes are 42kw/tonne for the 125 and 75kw/tonne for the 250. To put it another way you could get a bike with over 3x the power to weight ratio of the 125 or 2x the power to weight ratio of the 250 while on your learners or restricted in New Zealand.

16 comments:

  1. I've been looking at motorbikes for about a month now, and the GN series seems to be up my alley. There are several motorbike shops around the town where I live, one sells a brand new GN125 which covers registration and road costs, so it's a 'ride away deal', the other is a much older, secondhand GN model but it's a 250 and may be cheaper in the end. Which would you recommend, brand new 125 or old veteran 250?

    ReplyDelete
  2. That probably depends on what you're looking at using it for and how old the old 250 is. If the old 250 was made in Japan most people would advise buying the 250 as it was built to a higher standard than the more recent Chinese made versions (the most obvious difference being that the Chrome on the older bikes will outlast that on the newer ones).

    If you're ever thinking of taking on the motorway the 250 should hold you at motorway speeds more comfortably than the 125 and should have a marginally higher top speed (they can both exceed 100 though so strictly speaking you should never reach their top speed while on the road).

    If possible get someone who has been riding for a while to take them both for a spin for you. The real difference between their performance is surprisingly small and may even be the opposite of what you would expect if the 250 has not been looked after.

    If you're looking at this as a short term learner-> restricted bike I would probably suggest that 250 as the bigger cc rating makes it easier to onsell. Alternatively hold off for one more month and watch the possibilities open up when the learner licence cc restriction moves to a power-to-weight-ratio restriction.

    Finally keep in mind that both of these bikes are designed as commuters and sold as learner bikes. They are not meant to be exciting or fast, they are meant to get you from point a to point b. If that's what you're looking for then either of them will be fine.

    ReplyDelete
  3. You could also try asking this question on the kiwibiker.co.nz forum but I'm not sure that you will be taken seriously (it's cool to bash GN because they're not exciting sports bikes despite the fact that they were never intended to be exciting sports bikes nor are they marketed as exciting sports bikes)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Good summary! I have a GN400, and I would agree that they are getting hard to keep running. I would say that it is much better than the 250 on the road though - although still only a comfortable commuter. You just have to be patient... And relax.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I have owned a Japanese-made GN125 for 7 years and consistently get between 100 to 115 miles per imperial gallon (35 to 40 km per litre) in the city. This is significantly higher than the 28 to 31 km per litre for the GN250. Also, I can reach an indicated top speed of 115 kph on the GN125 at redline using the factory front sprocket, which is only 10 kph less than top speed the GN250.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Good point. But the 250 will pull better uphill or in strong headwinds.Better acceleration also. Both are well useable.

      Delete
    2. Having owned and commuted on both they are both usable. However if you're tackling hills at 100 the 250 is the only realistic option. The 125 just doesn't have enough left in the engine to deal with going 100 in that situation.

      Delete
  6. how do i tell whether the bike was built in japan as opposed to china?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There are rumours about looking at the wheels - spokes suggest Japan, the more recent non-spoked wheels suggest China. That being said I should check the year that they changed their production country.

      Delete
    2. They have 2 models, E models are the ones that come with cast aluminum wheels.
      Even in Japan, they made both variants. I'd prefer an alloy wheel bike over the spoke-d one due to ease in cleaning.

      Delete
  7. Hmm! very intresting! I am the project manager of http://suzukign.com! Would you like to write something for us?Send us a message! Cheers

    ReplyDelete
  8. I recently bought GN 250 (1985) and engine was in a very bad shape. I changed a piston (an extra 1mm large) cylinder head, rocker arms, camshaft valves etc and I am really suprprised. Compression of this bike is crazy. I reached 130km/h without any issue. I am planning a trip around Australia. I am using Castrol power 1 10w40 oil and engine is quite and works like a suiss watch. I honestly think that so far there is no better bike ever made. With a couple bucks I can ride whole week in the city and if needed I can even jump on highway without any issues.

    My recommendation is to buy an old Suzuki Gn 250 made in Japan and change cylinder head and a few parts and if you look after that bike ( constantly checking an oil level and make sure that you are using a good and quality oil) this little bike will never let you down. I painted mine in black with brown seat and brown and white tank and it looks very sexy.

    Do not buy a new bike from China, just get an good old bike made in Japan and even 8f you need to change few different parts in the engine it will no cost you a leg and arm but you will an amazing reliable motorbike. If you want more than 135km/h than put an bigger cylinder and you can get 300cc and that will fly.

    I hope that my advice will help and please do not forget to check you oil level regularly and top up with the same oil inside. Do not use cheap diesel oil, please use Castrol power 1 10w40 you can get it for 50 bucks on special (4 liters).

    Good luck

    Dark

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hi,
    Sorry if this is an old thread. I had a GN125 years ago, and have just spotted a 250 online that’s for sale locally. Other than obviously the engine size, is there any difference in the physical dimensions of the 2 bikes? I’m a tad bigger now than I was at 17 haha. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. A very quick google suggests there could be some very slight differences (125 dimensions: https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gn125%2085.htm or https://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Suzuki_GN125, 250 dimensions: https://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Suzuki_GN250)

      Delete
  10. Going to look at GN 250 tomorrow morning. So I figure it's easy to get parts in case things don't look so good but any key things I should look for (weaknesses) in the GN 250?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's been a while since I had one but parts were easy to come by when I did. No GN250 specific weaknesses come to mind, but a mechanic could probably tell you what to look for (if anything). They're a great commuter/learner/workhorse. I hope you find a good one :)

      Delete