5 Tips on buying a Learner Motorcycle

If you're looking to learn to ride a motorbike you will probably also be looking to buy a motorcycle. If you're just beginning to learn this means that it will probably also be your first time buying a bike and all the options can be a bit overwhelming. Unless you have a knowledgeable friend or a trustworthy motorcycle dealer you may be feeling a little lost. If so here are 5 tips to help you buy your first motorbike

1) Know your legal limits

Before worrying about whether you're physically able to ride your motorbike it's important to check if you're legally able to ride your motorbike. Until October 1st 2012 NZ riders have been able to ride any motorcycle with an engine size of 250cc or less. This limit on engine size rather than engine power to bike weight ratio lead to some bizarre distortions in the market. There were 250cc bikes deemed too powerful for learners with bigger engined bikes deemed to be within the control of most learners. After October 1st 2012 the legal restrictions will change. Restrictions will now focus on the power to weight ratio rather than the engine size. While most bikes of 250cc or less are still able to be ridden on a learner's licence the bikes below cannot:

Make	Model	cc
Aprilia	RS250	250
Honda	NSR250 (all models and variants)	250
Kawasaki	KR1 (all models and variants)	250
Suzuki	RGV250 (all models and variants)	250
Yamaha	TZR250 (all models and variants)	250

An up-to-date list of prohibited 250cc bikes that can't be ridden on a learner's licence as well as a list of bikes over 250cc that can be ridden on a learner's licence can be found here:
http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/approved-motorcycles.html

2) Don't invest too much in the bike

There are 2 main reasons for this. The first is that most people will move onto a larger bike when they get their full. The second is that you are probably quite likely to drop or damage your first bike while you figure out what you are doing. Often you can save a substantial amount of money by buying a bike second hand. Even minor scratches or damage can shave a fair amount of the potential purchase price. Take note of this when you are buying. If you buy a pristine learner bike it's resale value will plummet if you drop or damage it.

While it may be tempting to assume that this rule no longer applies - as learners can now purchase some bikes with engines larger than 250cc - keep in mind that people tend to upgrade for 2 reasons. While the first is to escape the 250cc learner/restricted stigma that they feel is imposed on them the second, more valid reason, is to gain more power. The bikes that are learner friendly and over 250cc are deemed learner friendly because they are relatively low power bikes. The bigger number will not stop those who want a more powerful bike from wanting a more powerful bike.

3) Invest in gear

As I've already said when you're learning you're reasonably likely to come off your bike. While this could be a simple drop from a misbalanced stop it could also be a slide from something going wrong while the bike is moving. While the first case will damage the bike more than you a slide can put some serious hurt on unprotected skin.

The minimum legal requirement is an approved helmet. While full face coverage is not required it is advisable as it will provide more protection if you come off your bike and/or crash. DO NOT BUY A SECOND HAND HELMET as you have no guarantee that the helmet has not been dropped or in an accident. Importantly the exterior condition of the helmet gives no indication of whether the interior of the helmet (the part that actually protects your head) is in good condition. While a second hand helmet may save you some money it could cost you your life. Furthermore it's probably false economy as a new standard helmet can typically be bought for $100, sometimes less.

The minimum advisable safety gear is a closed faced safety standard approved helmet and a good pair of gloves. This will protect your face and hands from gravel rash if you come off and go for a slide. If your hands are protected you will still be able to hold and manipulate things (such as knives, forks, and toilet paper -- think about that for a second).

Ideally you should go for a full set of protective clothing - Helmet, Gloves, Jacket, Pants, and Boots. When you put all of this together you should be well protected from gravel rash and the boots should help protect your ankles in the event of a crash. If possible try to get a pair of pants that will connect to your jacket by a zipper or similar. This will prevent the two pieces of clothing from coming apart during a slide and help you avoid gravel rash

4) Decide the type of bike you want to buy/Decide what type of rider you want to be

Cruiser, Sports, Dual-Purpose, Commuter, Tourer, a Scooter, or something else altogether? These bikes are designed to suit different riding styles and, as such, suit different riders. As a general rule commuters are designed to be cheap on gas, reliable, and easy but unexciting to ride. Sports bikes provide a more exciting riding experience at the cost of relative ease and economy. the other sub-types all come with their own unique trade offs as well. Figure out why you want to own a bike and buy the kind of bike that suits you. Similarly when reading reviews of the bikes you are interested try to identify whether the author's riding style suits yours. If your riding styles match up your taste in bikes will match up to. If they don't match up you may find that you love the bikes they hate and hate the bikes they love.

5) Get the bike Checked

If you're buying a bike second hand this is a very important step, particularly if you have never bought a bike before. Ideally you should get it checked by a bike mechanic whose opinion you trust. Alternatively a friend who knows about bikes can be a good option. If you're mechanically minded or would rather check it yourself here's a starter guide to buying a second hand motorbike.

Critically, DO NOT CONFUSE A WOF TEST WITH A PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION. A WOF check is done to ensure that a bike meets the minimum standards to be roadworthy. While this does involve checking for things like structural rust that presents an immediate problem it does not involve checking for things that could lead to a problem down the line nor does it involve checking for mechanical 'gripes' (things that you will probably want to get repaired but don't actually need to be repaired to pass a WOF). A pre-purchase inspection should be more thorough (provided your mechanic is holding up their end of the bargain) and will involve checking things that aren't considered in a standard WOF check.