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Tuesday, March 12, 2019

GN250 Custom Paint Job

This Suzuki GN250 was losing its clear coat when I purchased it a few years ago. Recently, the speedometer stopped working. This provided an opportunity to replace the speedometer and tachometer and respray the entire bike.

The bike was painted with acrylic spraypaint from a local auto store (Super Cheap Auto). Surfaces were cleaned and lightly sanded first.

The engine and forks were primed with an SLS self etching primer. The forks were then painted with the Black acrylic spray paint and the engine and exhaust were painted with engine enamel.

Painters tape was used to mask surfaces that needed marking. The lines on the bike were achieved using the masking tape. The tank and side covers were paitned balck first. The tank was then painted red, then white. The side covers were painted white, then red in order to achieve a narrower red stripe with the same masking tape used for all other surfaces. These surfaces were then covered in a clear coat.

All sprayed surfaces received 3-5 coats of paint in each colour used for that surface (red/black/white/clear)

The rear 'top box' was purchased from a local hardware store and mounted with bolts, nuts, and washers. I considered painting the top of the box red and the clips black but have opted to leave this for later for the time being.

The original seat cover had ripped at two stress points (common on these bikes and the GN125).


Tuesday, September 27, 2016

WestpacPhising Scam - Text message from customer support

Message Sender: +61 429 544 348
Message Content: You have received an alert from customer support http://westpacnz.com

Why it looks like a scam:
- Australian cellphone number
- Incorrect NZ website
- It's a text from the bank. Why would I be receiving a text from the bank that asks me to visit a link?

Monday, September 26, 2016

Photography Advice - Graduation photos case study - 50mm vs 24-70mm vs 24-104mm

Earlier tonight, I saw the post below on photography group I am a member of on Facebook:

"Wanted: Advice for graduation photos! 24-70mm 2.8 or 24-104 f4? (outdoor photos)
FREE
Auckland, New Zealand
Advice needed please:(Admin delete if not allowed)
Shooting friends graduation(s) tomorrow (Tuesday 27th, - Uni of Auckland). __Currently using 5D MK II with 50mm 1.8
Q: Should I hire a 24-70mm 2.8 or 24-105mm f4?
Will be in daylight so ISO 100, aperture 2.8-4 and auto shutter (AV mode). Or different settings?
Ive been advised to use the 24-105mm f4 since daylight?
Your advice is much appreciated amazing people !
(I usually do street photos so not experienced in formal portraits)
Thanks people!"

While the question wound me up, the responses quickly saw me seeing red. Everyone (including professional photographers) focused on the equipment, suggesting that a different lens was required and would somehow make the resulting images better by virtue of being shot using the new lens.

That advice is garbage.

Any of the lenses would have been fit for purpose. Critically, this includes the 50mm lens that the poster already owned. What was missing here wasn't gear, it was an understanding of what the various trade-offs involved in photography are.

The 3 reasons to choose one of the zooms (and why they're not very good reasons)
One: Versatility - Wide Angles
In my opinion, this is the strongest of the reasons to choose a zoom lens. While the 50mm lens will be fine in most situations, if you are in a closely confined space or need to take photos of a large group, the ability to shoot at wider angles can be an advantage. However, as this person states they will be outdoors, the need for a wider angle lens can probably be removed/reduced by simply walking further away from the subjects (i.e. using sneaker zoom).
Two: Versatility - Perspective
The second strongest reason is based on personal preference/common practice in portrait photography. In most cases, photos taken with a telephoto lens are more flattering than those taken with wider angle lenses. If I had all 3 of the lenses in my bag, I would probably use one of the zoom lenses at 70mm+ to capitalise on this. However, if I only had the 50 and wanted a more telephoto look, I can achieve this for free by cropping the image in post.
Three: Technical advantages
There will be differences in the performance of the lenses. One may have 'better' bokeh, produce sharper images, have image stabilisation, etc. For reasons like these, one of the lenses will be the best choice on paper. However, all of the lenses should produce acceptable images and, if we're being brutally honest, it is unlikely that the friends will be able to spot any difference that would be attributable to lens choice alone. If we're even more brutally honest, it is unlikely that the photographer will be able to spot these differences themselves either.

The 5 reasons why the 50mm lens would have been perfectly fine
One: They already own the lens, so they should know how it behaves
In order to know and take advantage of those technical advantages mentioned in the previous section, you need to be familiar with your equipment. If you're hiring a lens for a day you'll either have no real idea of how it behaves or you will be trusting the advice of someone else. Either way, really, you've taken the control out of your hands. In addition, you're more likely to make a silly mistake with a lens that you're unfamiliar with (zooming the wrong way, accidentally disabling autofocus) and less likely to know how to fix any issues that come up. Time you spend dealing with these issues is time you're not spending attending to/capturing moments happening around you.

Two: Outdoor photography is 'sneaker-zoom' friendly
As mentioned in the first point of the previous section, when you're outside the ability to zoom in and out becomes far less important. If you want to 'zoom out', walk further away. If you want to 'zoom in', get closer. Use your environment to save your money and expand your options.

Three: Depth of field (the extent to which the background is in/out of focus) is controlled by factors other than the lens
One of the main reasons people shoot portraits with telephoto lenses is the ability to 'blur' the background by throwing it out of focus. As I said earlier, If I had all 3 of the lenses in my bag, I would probably use one of the zoom lenses at 70mm+ to capitalise on this. 

However, while focal length is one tool in the toolkit here, larger apertures and/or greater distances between the subject and the background also allow photographers to blur the background. As the 50mm lens has the widest potential aperture setting and the shoot will be taking place outdoors, a blurred background is well within reach with a 50mm lens.

Four: Cropping control - Benefiting from a telephoto like perspective
One of the other reasons that people tend to use telephoto lenses for portrait work is that telephoto lenses compress the foreground and the background. As a general rule, this tends to make people more 'photogenic'. However, it isn't actually the lens that is doing the work here, it is the distance between the subject and the camera. You can achieve the same compression by shooting an image that is wider than required and cropping down in camera/in post. 'Crop sensor' dSLRs essentially do this all the time.

Five: THEY ALREADY OWN THE LENS
While they absolutely can hire one of the other lenses and one of the other lenses may give them photos that are closer to what they are picturing in their heads, hiring another lens costs money and time. Applying an understanding of how photography works can save both of these. Developing such an understanding is well worth the investment.

The best advice
Equipment doesn't take good photographs, you do. 
You can sink as much money as you want into 'the right' gear but spending that money won't make you better at planning and composing a successful photograph.

Learn the underlying principles and apply them everywhere.
The most concerning lines in the original question were these ones:
"
Will be in daylight so ISO 100, aperture 2.8-4 and auto shutter (AV mode). Or different settings?"
- This is concerning because the 'right' settings will vary by the amount of light available in the specific location at the specific time and the intended result.
"Ive been advised to use the 24-105mm f4 since daylight?"
- This is concerning because the focal length is irrelevant if the light available is the primary concern.
"
I usually do street photos so not experienced in formal portraits"
- The principles of photography are the same regardless of the type of photography you are doing. 

Know what you're going to shoot before you shoot it
What was missing from the original question (and subsequent advice) was a clear indication of what they wanted their images to look like. While anyone can (and plenty did) throw a combination of focal length, shutter speed, ISO, and/or aperture out there, each combination will be making a different set of trade-offs resulting in a different final image. Rather than entering a bunch of numbers into a machine and hoping everything works out, learn what the numbers mean and set them to what you want so you get what's in your head.

Composition is king
Ironically, when giving advice, nobody mentioned composition (i.e. what the image will actually look like). The right settings mean nothing if the camera is pointed in the wrong direction.

The advice they went with
In the end, this person chose to hire a 24-70mm lens on the basis of advice from the group. The thread was then deleted.


The wrong questions to ask when looking for photography advice

Earlier tonight, I saw the post below on photography group I am a member of on Facebook:

"Wanted: Advice for graduation photos! 24-70mm 2.8 or 24-104 f4? (outdoor photos)
FREE
Auckland, New Zealand
Advice needed please:(Admin delete if not allowed)
Shooting friends graduation(s) tomorrow (Tuesday 27th, - Uni of Auckland). __Currently using 5D MK II with 50mm 1.8
Q: Should I hire a 24-70mm 2.8 or 24-105mm f4?
Will be in daylight so ISO 100, aperture 2.8-4 and auto shutter (AV mode). Or different settings?
Ive been advised to use the 24-105mm f4 since daylight?
Your advice is much appreciated amazing people !
(I usually do street photos so not experienced in formal portraits)
Thanks people!"

While the question wound me up, the responses quickly saw me seeing red. Everyone (including professional photographers) focused on the equipment, suggesting that a different lens was required and would somehow make the resulting images better by virtue of being shot using the new lens.

That advice is garbage.

Any of the lenses would have been fit for purpose. Critically, this includes the 50mm lens that the poster already owned. What was missing here wasn't gear, it was an understanding of what the various trade-offs involved in photography are.

The 3 reasons to choose one of the zooms (and why they're not very good reasons)
One: Versatility - Wide Angles
In my opinion, this is the strongest of the reasons to choose a zoom lens. While the 50mm lens will be fine in most situations, if you are in a closely confined space or need to take photos of a large group, the ability to shoot at wider angles can be an advantage. However, as this person states they will be outdoors, the need for a wider angle lens can probably be removed/reduced by simply walking further away from the subjects (i.e. using sneaker zoom).
Two: Versatility - Perspective
The second strongest reason is based on personal preference/common practice in portrait photography. In most cases, photos taken with a telephoto lens are more flattering than those taken with wider angle lenses. If I had all 3 of the lenses in my bag, I would probably use one of the zoom lenses at 70mm+ to capitalise on this. However, if I only had the 50 and wanted a more telephoto look, I can achieve this for free by cropping the image in post.
Three: Technical advantages
There will be differences in the performance of the lenses. One may have 'better' bokeh, produce sharper images, have image stabilisation, etc. For reasons like these, one of the lenses will be the best choice on paper. However, all of the lenses should produce acceptable images and, if we're being brutally honest, it is unlikely that the friends will be able to spot any difference that would be attributable to lens choice alone. If we're even more brutally honest, it is unlikely that the photographer will be able to spot these differences themselves either.

The 5 reasons why the 50mm lens would have been perfectly fine
One: They already own the lens, so they should know how it behaves
In order to know and take advantage of those technical advantages mentioned in the previous section, you need to be familiar with your equipment. If you're hiring a lens for a day you'll either have no real idea of how it behaves or you will be trusting the advice of someone else. Either way, really, you've taken the control out of your hands. In addition, you're more likely to make a silly mistake with a lens that you're unfamiliar with (zooming the wrong way, accidentally disabling autofocus) and less likely to know how to fix any issues that come up. Time you spend dealing with these issues is time you're not spending attending to/capturing moments happening around you.

Two: Outdoor photography is 'sneaker-zoom' friendly
As mentioned in the first point of the previous section, when you're outside the ability to zoom in and out becomes far less important. If you want to 'zoom out', walk further away. If you want to 'zoom in', get closer. Use your environment to save your money and expand your options.

Three: Depth of field (the extent to which the background is in/out of focus) is controlled by factors other than the lens
One of the main reasons people shoot portraits with telephoto lenses is the ability to 'blur' the background by throwing it out of focus. As I said earlier, If I had all 3 of the lenses in my bag, I would probably use one of the zoom lenses at 70mm+ to capitalise on this. 

However, while focal length is one tool in the toolkit here, larger apertures and/or greater distances between the subject and the background also allow photographers to blur the background. As the 50mm lens has the widest potential aperture setting and the shoot will be taking place outdoors, a blurred background is well within reach with a 50mm lens.

Four: Cropping control - Benefiting from a telephoto like perspective
One of the other reasons that people tend to use telephoto lenses for portrait work is that telephoto lenses compress the foreground and the background. As a general rule, this tends to make people more 'photogenic'. However, it isn't actually the lens that is doing the work here, it is the distance between the subject and the camera. You can achieve the same compression by shooting an image that is wider than required and cropping down in camera/in post. 'Crop sensor' dSLRs essentially do this all the time.

Five: THEY ALREADY OWN THE LENS
While they absolutely can hire one of the other lenses and one of the other lenses may give them photos that are closer to what they are picturing in their heads, hiring another lens costs money and time. Applying an understanding of how photography works can save both of these. Developing such an understanding is well worth the investment.

The best advice
Equipment doesn't take good photographs, you do. 
You can sink as much money as you want into 'the right' gear but spending that money won't make you better at planning and composing a successful photograph.

Learn the underlying principles and apply them everywhere.
The most concerning lines in the original question were these ones:
"
Will be in daylight so ISO 100, aperture 2.8-4 and auto shutter (AV mode). Or different settings?"
- This is concerning because the 'right' settings will vary by the amount of light available in the specific location at the specific time and the intended result.
"Ive been advised to use the 24-105mm f4 since daylight?"
- This is concerning because the focal length is irrelevant if the light available is the primary concern.
"
I usually do street photos so not experienced in formal portraits"
- The principles of photography are the same regardless of the type of photography you are doing. 

Know what you're going to shoot before you shoot it
What was missing from the original question (and subsequent advice) was a clear indication of what they wanted their images to look like. While anyone can (and plenty did) throw a combination of focal length, shutter speed, ISO, and/or aperture out there, each combination will be making a different set of trade-offs resulting in a different final image. Rather than entering a bunch of numbers into a machine and hoping everything works out, learn what the numbers mean and set them to what you want so you get what's in your head.


Thursday, September 22, 2016

5 tips for year round motorcycle riding

1) Live somewhere that doesn't have a real winter
Year round riding is great as long as you're not trying to ride on ice or through snow. If you're lucky enough to live somewhere that snow and ice won't be an issue, you're well on your way to year round motorcycle commuting.
2) Wear season-appropriate gear
Summer is hot. Winter is cold and often wet. You won't be able to wear exactly the same thing in exactly the same way throughout the year. When buying gear, you have a few options to consider
- buy season specifc gear
- buy gear with removable liners
- buy gear the will work for summer and will allow you space for extra layers in winter
- buy waterproof overalls
3) Be aware of seasonal hazards
A simple example is the position of the sun.
4) Maintain your machine
In the best case scenario, you're as safe as the machine that you're sitting on. Be aware of season-specific concerns with your bike. In winter, make sure your chain is well lubricated to prevent rust and make sure that your tyres are filled to an appropriate pressure with appropriate tread depth. Wet roads leave less wiggle room for 'marginal' tread depths. In summer, understand the operating temperature requirements of your machine. If you leak coolant, be extra vigilant.
5) Know your limits
To ride year-round you need to be able to survive your ride each day. Be prepared to leave your bike behind if conditions change from the start of the day to the end of the day. If you are commuting to and from the city, research your public transport options and use them when you need to.

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

Hanging Garden With Coffee Sacks - DIY

Materials:
Coffee Sack
Polypropylene
Screws
Existing Fence
Potting Mix
Plants

Tools:
Scissors
Craft knife
Electric Drill




1) Cut down the side of coffee sack. The bottom of the bag should now be in the middle of a long strip of sack cloth
2) Fold the coffee sack in half until it is the desired size. Here I have folded the coffee sack in half three times.
3) Cut enough polypropylene to line the inside of the coffee sack.

4) Cut drainage holes in the center of the polypropylene (the center will end up being the base of the hanging garden.

5) Fold the coffee sack and polypropylene in half in order to make the 'bowl' for the hanging garden.
6) Use an electric drill to secure one end of the sack/hanging garden in place. Make sure that the screw goes through the coffee sack and the polypropylene. When deciding on the positioning of your hanging garden, remember that you will need to allow from some slack in order to be able to fill the hanging garden segments with soil and plants.
7) Use the electric drill to secure the other end of the sack/hanging garden in place, be sure to allow some slack to allow room for the soil and plant to be added.
8) Use the drill and screws to segment the hanging garden into sections as desired. In this case, the hanging garden has been split into 4 segments by adding screws to the center of the cloth and then adding screws to the centre of each area again.
9) Add additional screws to each section to add strength (if you have not done so already). I have used 3-4 crews in each position (5 positions = 15-20 screws used).
9) Add soil and plants to each section.

This photo shows an older sack above the new sack. Note that the older sack has discoloured significantly. Without the polypropylene, The exposure to weather, soil, and water would lead to coffee sack disintegrating.

Approximate costs - September 2016
Coffee Sack $5 each from Junk and Disorderly
Polypropylene - <$2 per square metre from hardware store (e.g. Mitre 10, Bunnings. Look in the garden department if you are having trouble locating this)
Screws
Potting Mix: $6 per bag
Plants: $2+ per plant
Total cost for one

Time to complete: <30 minutes


Monday, June 22, 2015

Survey Response Reliability Assessment


Hi all, 
I am trying to find the source of the formula above. It is included in some survey software I am using as a response reliability assessment measure but I caurrently have no confidence in how/why it can/should be used for this purpose.

Any infor is greatly appreciated.